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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.